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Building your business

Posted on October 17, 2014 at 10:20 PM Comments comments (28)

Just a quick entry today, for those business professionals out there trying to keep busy, Thumbtack.com has been a huge source of leads. So if you own your own business, its great and inexpensive way to get your name out there. Here is a link: home inspecting

Mold

Posted on May 8, 2014 at 4:30 PM Comments comments (0)

Good Afteroon Friends!

     With all this rain please keep a watch out for mold also. Please always feel free to contact me with any questions and remember me for all your Home Inspection and Constructions needs. I am also now doing mold testing and remediation.


Mold Basics


The key to mold control is moisture control.


If mold is a problem in your home, you should clean up the mold promptly and fix the water problem.


It is important to dry water-damaged areas and items within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.


Why is mold growing in my home?


Mold growing outdoors on firewood.

 


Molds come in many colors; both white and black molds are shown here.


Molds are part of the natural environment. Outdoors, molds play a part in nature by breaking down dead organic matter such as fallen leaves and dead trees, but indoors, mold growth should be avoided. Molds reproduce by means of tiny spores; the spores are invisible to the naked eye and float through outdoor and indoor air. Mold may begin growing indoors when mold spores land on surfaces that are wet. There are many types of mold, and none of them will grow without water or moisture.


Can mold cause health problems?


Molds are usually not a problem indoors, unless mold spores land on a wet or damp spot and begin growing. Molds have the potential to cause health problems. Molds produce allergens (substances that can cause allergic reactions), irritants, and in some cases, potentially toxic substances (mycotoxins). Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis). Allergic reactions to mold are common. They can be immediate or delayed. Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold. In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat, and lungs of both mold-allergic and non-allergic people. Symptoms other than the allergic and irritant types are not commonly reported as a result of inhaling mold. Research on mold and health effects is ongoing.


Magnified mold spores

 


Molds gradually destroy the things they grow on. You can prevent damage to your home and furnishings, save money, and avoid potential health problems by controlling moisture and eliminating mold growth


This provides a brief overview; it does not describe all potential health effects related to mold exposure. For more detailed information consult a health professional.


How do I get rid of mold?


It is impossible to get rid of all mold and mold spores indoors; some mold spores will be found floating through the air and in house dust. The mold spores will not grow if moisture is not present. Indoor mold growth can and should be prevented or controlled by controlling moisture indoors. If there is mold growth in your home, you must clean up the mold and fix the water problem. If you clean up the mold, but don't fix the water problem, then, most likely, the mold problem will come back.

 


Mold Cleanup


Who should do the cleanup depends on a number of factors. One consideration is the size of the mold problem. If the moldy area is less than about 10 square feet (less than roughly a 3 ft. by 3 ft. patch), in most cases, you can handle the job yourself, follow the guidelines. However:


If you already have a mold problem - ACT QUICKLY. Mold damages what it grows on. The longer it grows, the more damage it can cause.

 


Leaky window - mold is beginning to rot the wooden frame and windowsill.


If there has been a lot of water damage, and/or mold growth covers more than 10 square feet, consult a professional like myself.


If you suspect that the heating/ventilation/air conditioning (HVAC) system may be contaminated with mold (it is part of an identified moisture problem, for instance, or there is mold near the intake to the system), consult a professional like myself. Do not run the HVAC system if you know or suspect that it is contaminated with mold - it could spread mold throughout the building.


If the water and/or mold damage was caused by sewage or other contaminated water, then call in a professional, like myself, who has experience cleaning and fixing buildings damaged by contaminated water.


If you have health concerns, consult a health professional before starting cleanup.


Mold Cleanup Guidelines


Tips and techniques


The tips and techniques presented in this section will help you clean up your mold problem. Professional cleaners or remediators may use other methods that I haven't covered here today. Please note that mold may cause staining and cosmetic damage. It may not be possible to clean an item so that its original appearance is restored.


Fix plumbing leaks and other water problems as soon as possible. Dry all items completely.


Scrub mold off hard surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely.


Absorbent or porous materials, such as ceiling tiles and carpet, may have to be thrown away if they become moldy. Mold can grow on or fill in the empty spaces and crevices of porous materials, so the mold may be difficult or impossible to remove completely.


Avoid exposing yourself or others to mold


Do not paint or caulk moldy surfaces. Clean up the mold and dry the surfaces before painting. Paint applied over moldy surfaces is likely to peel.


If you are unsure about how to clean an item, or if the item is expensive or of sentimental value, you may wish to consult a specialist. Specialists in furniture repair, restoration, painting, art restoration and conservation, carpet and rug cleaning, water damage, and fire or water restoration are commonly listed in phone books. Be sure to ask for and check references. Look for specialists who are affiliated with professional organizations


* Take things that were wet for 2 or more days outside

 


* Things that have been wet for 2 days have mold growing on them even if you can't see it.

 


* Take out stuff made of cloth, unless you can wash them in HOT water. Also take out stuff that can not be claened easy (like leather, paper, wood, carpet).

 


* Use bleach to clean mold off hard things (like floors, stoves, certain toys, countertops, flatware, plates, and tools).


Follow these steps:


* Never mix bleach with ammonia or other cleaners. Read your labels carefully

 


* Waer rubber boots, rubber gloves, goggles, and a N-95 mask.

 


* Open windows and doors to get fresh air when using the bleach and for air out.

 


* Mix no more than 1 cup of bleach and water mixture

 


* If the surface of the item is rough, scrub the surface with a stiff brush

 


* Rinse the item with clean water

 


* Dry the item or leave out to air dry


Bathroom Tip


Places that are often or always damp can be hard to maintain completely free of mold. If there's some mold in the shower or elsewhere in the bathroom that seems to reappear, increasing ventilation (running a fan or opening a window) and cleaning more frequently will usually prevent mold from recurring, or at least keep the mold to a minimum

 

Standing water and drainage

Posted on May 8, 2014 at 4:25 PM Comments comments (0)

Good Afternoon Friends,

I wanted to take a minute and remind everyone about standing water and drainage and mold prevention. With all the rain we are having it is really important that keep up on it. Please contact me with any questions. Please remember me for your Home Inspections, water testing, radon testing, mold test and remedation, termite treatments, and all your constuction needs and much more.


Foundation Drainage


WHAT DOES FOUNDATION DRAINAGE MEAN?


Foundation drainage refers to any system designed to divert or direct water away from a foundation. Such drainage includes systems installed outside the edge of foundations as well as systems that are installed under foundations.


WHY IS FOUNDATION DRAINAGE IMPORTANT?


In many areas the ability of soils to support a foundation is affected by the amount of water in the soils. Too much water can cause soils to be muddy, and a foundation can sink. Too much water, and expansive soils will lift a house up. Good foundation drainage helps to keep excess water away from a foundation and to prevent problems.


DO I NEED FOUNDATION DRAINAGE?


An hour after rain stops, do you have standing water within 10 feet of your foundation? If your answer is “Yes”, you may need drainage improvements.


Be prepared for when the rains come. Now is the time to review the drainage around the foundation. Proper foundation drainage helps prevent foundation problems. Cracked foundations are costly to fix while foundation drainage is a cheap and easy way to prevent foundation problems.

 

Help lessen the need for foundation repairs with a drainage swale or vegetated swale. Drainage swales are easy to install shallow ditches that drain excess water away from foundations. Often over looked and under used, drainage swales are simple and inexpensive foundation maintenance option.


Installs Gutters and Downspouts


These are the first things added as they are the easiest way to drain a foundation.


Adjust Slopes


The next step is, if possible, to slope the ground away from the foundation. Typically a slope of an inch a foot for 4 to 5 feet is adequate as long as water is not allowed to stand within 10 feet of a foundation.


Install Drains


If grading is not possible, area drains, drains that collect surface water are installed. In some situations, shallow French Drains are used as a solution.


Water Direction


Focus is to, when possible, direct water into a street, drainage ditch, or swale. A swale is simply a very shallow ditch that is used to carry off water.


WHAT ABOUT WATER UNDER A SLAB?


Even when there is adequate exterior surface drainage water can flow under the surface and get under a slab. Based on how the water is flowing use the following approaches:


Install Moisture Barriers


Moisture barriers are vertical layers of plastic that are buried in the ground. As water flows up against a moisture barrier, it is stopped and prevented from getting under a home.


Install French Drains


French Drains are trenches filled with gravel that have a drain line buried in the gravel. French drains are designed to intercept and remove underground water.


Install Under Slab Drains


Rarely, it is necessary to tunnel under a foundation and install drains in the tunnels to collect and remove water. Drainage tunnels are dug by hand and typically measure 3 feet wide and 3 feet deep.


Keeping water drained away from home foundations is important for three reasons. First, if there is living space on the other side, the owner will want it to stay dry. Good drainage is the first step toward accomplishing that, then waterproofing. Second, soils supporting a foundation need to stay at a consistent moisture level to prevent settlement, heave, or differential movement. Last, but not least, drains are required by the building code. Here are a few things to keep in mind:


Moisture: There are two zones of subsurface moisture: the aeration zone (where both water and air exist) and the saturation zone. Generally, the saturation zone is everything below the water table, which is the level at which water rises to in a well. The saturation zone is seldom an issue in residential construction—soil moisture is the concern.


Loss of soil moisture: Soil moisture beneath a foundation is lost in a triangular configuration, so the deepest dry area is just outside the edge of the foundation and the ground beneath the middle of the slab remains saturated. Differential drying or differential amounts of moisture in the soil can create problems, especially in expansive soils, which in many parts of the country are more the rule than the exception. In some areas, homeowners actually have to water their foundations to maintain soil moisture.


Surface drainage: Controlling surface water is critical to controlling soil moisture beneath the foundation. The ground surface should slope away from the house at between ½ and 1 inch per foot for at least 6 feet—10 feet is better. Be careful of poorly compacted backfill, though, because that will soon mean that the surface will slope back toward the house.


Gutters: Downspouts should discharge on sloping surfaces at least 10 feet from the foundation. Where that isn't possible, downspouts should discharge into drained catch basins.


Trees: According to the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development, trees should be planted no closer to the foundation than their eventual height. This prevents tree roots from filling perimeter drains and inhibits the tree from sucking all the water from the soil, which could lead to settlement.


Subsurface drainage: Perimeter drains should be made from rigid drain tile or perforated pipe. Although flexible corrugated plastic pipe can be used, care must be taken to prevent it from being crushed during backfilling. One simple method is to use Form-A-Drain, which is a combined footing side form and drain pipe.


Drain pipes: Drain pipes should be positioned alongside the footing—the best spot is near its base. Although tile doesn't need to be sloping, low spots (which can fill with silt) must be avoided. With flexible tile, a good location is on top of the footing, which helps keep them from developing low spots.


Drainage boards: In wetter areas, drainage boards installed on a concrete foundation wall will allow water to drain quickly to the perimeter drain and will prevent any buildup of hydrostatic pressure next to the wall. Several systems are available, including Delta-MS from Cosella Dorken and Platon from Armtec.


A few tips on mosquitoe prevention


standing water where mosquitoes lay their eggs and places where adult mosquitoes find shelter.


Mosquitoes can breed in something as small as a bottle cap, so check around your home on a regular basis.


Larvicide is placed in areas where water stands on a continuous basis. The larvicide kills the larvae before they hatch out.


Mow lawn regularly


Remove all water holding containers from yard (buckets, cans, tires, bottles, etc.)


Fill in or drain low places in yard.


Trim shrubbery


Dont let water stand at base of flowerpots or in pet dishes.


Change water in birdbaths.


Clean gutters regularly


Turn over wading pools, wagons, wheelbarrows, etc.


Drain pool covers.

 

Other Information…

 

When outside wear light colored clothing and avoid heavily scented toiletries.


Avoid being outdoors when mosquitoes are most active, at dawn and dusk.


Standing water in the yard can cause damage to trees, plants, and bushes. It can cause the ground to soften around the trees and cause the trees to fall.


Use an insect repellent:


10% or less DEET for children older than 5 years of age


No more than 30% DEET for adults


DEET Free repellents for children under 5 and pregnant women

 

Helpful Checklist reminders

Posted on March 21, 2014 at 12:55 AM Comments comments (0)

A little tidbit I picked up is to run the kitchen hot water until it gets hot before starting a load of dishes in the dish washer. Doing this starts the dish cycle using hot water.


MONTHLY

• Fire Extinguisher: Check that it's fully charged; recharge or replace if needed.

• Sink/Tub Stoppers and Drain Holes: Clean out debris.

• Garbage Disposal: Flush with hot water and baking soda.

• Water Softener: Check water softener salt drum and replinish salt if necessary.

• Forced-Air Heating System: Change filters once a month if user's manual recommends fiberglass filters.

 

EVERY 2 MONTHS

• Wall Furnace: Clean grills.

• Range Hood: Clean grease filter.

 

EVERY 3 MONTHS

• Faucet: Clean aerator.

• Tub Drain Assembly: Clean out debris; inspect rubber seal and replace if needed.

• Floor and Outdoor Drain Grates: Clean out debris.

 

EVERY 6 MONTHS

• Smoke Detector: Test batteries and replace if needed.

• Toilet: Check for leaks and water run-on.

• Interior Caulking: Inspect caulking around tubs, showers, and sinks; replace any if it is deteriorating.

• Forced-Air Heating System: Change semi-annually if user's mannual recommends high efficiency pleated or HEPA-style filters.

• Garbage Disposal: Tighten drain connections and fasteners.

• Clothes Washer: Clean water inlet filters; check hoses and replace them if they are leaking.

• Clothes Dryer: Vacuum lint from ducts and surrounding areas.

• Wiring: Check for frayed cords and wires; repair or replace them as needed.

• Range Hood: Wash fan blades and housing.

 

Prevent Water Damage Through Good Home Maintenance

Posted on March 18, 2014 at 12:15 AM Comments comments (0)

   Andy is always available to help with most of your home maintenance and repair. He also can inspect your home for any damage and help get you on a regular maintenance schedule. Please feel free to contact Andy with any questions you may have. Remember your home is one of your greatest investments and regular home maintenance will help keep it that way.


For people, water is necessary for survival. However, for a house, water can be a destructive force that can lead to wood rot, peeling paint, insect infestation, shorter lifespan of roofing and siding and higher maintenance costs. We have had a lot of snow this winter and everything is wet it is a good time to check for leaks.

 


Investigate, Identify and Repair All Leaks and Cracks

 


The best way to prevent water damage from rainwater and snowmelt is to ensure the exterior materials of the building are properly constructed and maintained. The following are tips for identifying and eliminating sources of water intrusion in your home.Common places where water intrusion occurs:

 


Windows and Doors: Check for leaks around your windows and doors, especially near the corners. Check for peeling paint, it can be a sign of water getting into the wood. Inspect for discolorations in paint or caulking, swelling of the window or doorframe or surrounding materials.

 


Roof: Repair or replace shingles around any area that allows water to penetrate the roof sheathing. Leaks are particularly common around chimneys, plumbing vents and attic vents. To trace the source of a ceiling leak, measure its location from the nearest outside wall and then locate this point in the attic using a measuring tape. Keep in mind that the water may run along the attic floor, rafters, or truss for quite a distance before coming through the ceiling.

 


Foundation and Exterior Walls: Seal any cracks and holes in external walls, joints, and foundations, in particular, examine locations where piping or wiring extends through the outside walls. Fill all cracks in these locations with sealant.

 


Plumbing: Check for leaking faucets, dripping or "sweating" pipes, clogged drains, and faulty water drainage systems Inspect washing machine hoses for bulges, cracks or wetness. Replace them every few years or sooner if problems are found. Inspect the water heater for signs of rust or water on the floor.

 


Termite-Damaged Material: Check for termite damage in wood materials such as walls, beams, or floors. Any wood exposed to the exterior can potentially lead to moisture intrusion or termite infestation.

 


Prevent Water Damage Through Good Home Maintenance

 


You can help prevent future leaks and water intrusion by regularly inspecting the following elements in your home and making sure they remain in good condition.

 


Flashing: Flashing, which is typically a thin metal strip found around doors, windows, thresholds, chimneys, and roofs, is designed to prevent water intrusion in spaces where two different building surfaces meet.

 


Vents: All vents, including clothes dryer, gable vents, attic vents, and exhaust vents, should have hoods, exhaust to the exterior, be in good working order, and have boots.

 


Attics: Check for holes, air leaks, or bypasses from the house and make sure there is enough insulation to keep house heat from escaping. Among other things, air leaks and inadequate insulation results in ice damming. If ice dams collect around the lower edge of a roof, rain or melted snow can back up under the shingles and into the attic or the house. Check the bottom side of the roof sheathing and roof rafters or truss for water stains.

 


Basements: Make sure that basement windows and doors have built-up barriers or flood shields. Inspect sump pumps to ensure they work properly. A battery backup system is recommended. The sump pump should discharge as far away from the house as possible.

 


Humidity: The relative humidity in your home should be between 30% and 50%. Condensation on windows, wet stains on walls and ceilings, and musty smells are signs that you may have too much humidity in your home. Check areas where air does not easily circulate, such as behind curtains, under beds, and in closets for dampness and mildew. Be sure to use bathroom exhaust fans following warm showers or baths. When going on trips, turn the temperature up on the air conditioning, not off. The air conditioning system helps remove moisture from your home. If you are concerned about the humidity level in your home, consult with a mechanical contractor or air conditioning repair company to determine if your HVAC system is properly sized and in good working order.

 


Air Conditioners: Check drain pans to insure they drain freely, are adequately sloped toward the outlets and that no standing water is present. Make sure drain lines are clean and clear of obstructions. Drain pan overflows usually occur the first time the unit is turned on in the spring. Clean prior to first use with compressed air or by pouring a water-bleach solution down the drain line until it flows freely.

 


Expansion Joints: Expansion joints are materials between bricks, pipes, and other building materials that absorb movement. If expansion joints are not in good condition, water intrusion can occur. If there are cracks in the joint sealant, remove the old sealant, install a backer rod and fill with a new sealant.

 


Exterior Wood Sheathing and Siding: Replace any wood siding and sheathing that appears to have water damage. Inspect any wood sided walls to ensure there is at least 8" between any wood and the earth.

 


Drywall: Since drywall is an extremely porous material and is difficult to dry out completely, damaged areas should be replaced if any signs of moisture are present. One way to protect drywall from moisture intrusion in the event of a flood is to install it slightly above the floor and cover the gap with molding.

 


Exterior Walls: Exterior walls should be kept well painted and sealed. Don't place compost or leaf piles against the outside walls. Landscape features should not include soil or other bedding material mounded up against walls.

 


Landscaping: Keep trees trimmed so that branches are at least 7 feet away from any exterior house surface. This will help prolong the life of your siding and roof and prevent insects from entering your home from the tree. Vines should be kept off all exterior walls, because they can help open cracks in the siding, which allows moisture or insects to enter the house.

 


Irrigation: Inspect and adjust the spray pattern of the irrigation heads to minimize the water sprayed directly onto the house to avoid excessive water near the foundation.

 


Act Quickly if Water Intrusion Occurs

 


If water intrusion does occur, you can minimize the damage by addressing the problem quickly and thoroughly. If water is flowing into the home from burst piping or damaged appliances, shut off the water supply, typically found outside the house or at the meter. Immediately remove standing water and all moist materials, and consult with a licensed building professional who can determine the extent of the repairs necessary. Water damage left unattended can result in structural failure or, potentially, mold growth.

 


Should your home become damaged by a catastrophic event such as fire, flood or storm, take appropriate actions to prevent further water damage once it is safe to do so. This may include boarding up damaged windows, covering a damaged roof with plastic sheeting, or removing wet, damaged rugs, carpet, or personal belongings. Fast action on your part will help minimize the time and expense for repairs, resulting in a faster recovery.

 

Home maintenance

Posted on March 6, 2014 at 8:35 AM Comments comments (0)

  After a long, dark winter, spring's bright sun and warm winds are, well, a breath of fresh air. The only downside? All that sunshine spotlights your leaf-filled gutters, cracked sidewalks and the dead plants in last year's flower beds. Here is a check list to help with the home maintenance list. Home maintenance is a very important part of being a home owner. It is a continuous cycle of chores. Some fun, some not so much but it saves time and money in the long run and may be even gets you out in the sunshine. To get organized I would make lists based on the season of the maintenance that needs to be done to and around the home. This not only keeps you organized, it helps everyone be able to pitch in because they know what needs to be done and gives you a sense of accomplishment when you are finished.

Check for loose or leaky gutters. Improper drainage can lead to water in the basement or crawl space. Make sure downspouts drain away from the foundation and are clear and free of debris.

Low areas in the yard or next to the foundation should be filled with compacted soil. Spring rains can cause yard flooding, which can lead to foundation flooding and damage. Also, when water pools in these low areas in summer, it creates a breeding ground for insects.

Use a screwdriver to probe the wood trim around windows, doors, railings and decks. Make repairs now before the spring rains do more damage to the exposed wood. Inspect window and door caulking and weather stripping yearly.

From the ground, examine roof shingles to see if any were lost or damaged during winter. If your home has an older roof covering, you may want to start a budget for replacement. The summer sun can really damage roof shingles. Shingles that are cracked, buckled or loose or are missing granules need to be replaced. Flashing around plumbing vents, skylights and chimneys need to be checked and repaired by a qualified roofer.

Examine the exterior of the chimney for signs of damage. Have the flue cleaned and inspected by a certified chimney sweep.
Inspect concrete slabs for signs of cracks or movement. All exterior slabs except pool decks should drain away from the home's foundation. Fill cracks with a concrete crack filler or silicone caulk. When weather permits, power-wash and then seal the concrete.

Remove firewood stored near the home. Firewood should be stored at least 18 inches off the ground at least 2 feet from the structure.

Check outside hose faucets for freeze damage. Turn the water on and place your thumb or finger over the opening. If you can stop the flow of water, it is likely the pipe inside the home is damaged and will need to be replaced. While you're at it, check the garden hose for dry rot.

Clean leaves and debris from the condenser of a central air conditioner seasonally. Have a qualified heating and cooling contractor clean and service the outside unit of the air conditioning system. Clean coils operate more efficiently, and an annual service call will keep the system working at peak performance levels.

Change interior filters on a regular basis.

Check your gas- and battery-powered lawn equipment to make sure it is ready for summer use. Clean equipment and sharp cutting blades will make yardwork easier

Test your garage door opener monthly to ensure that it reverses when it hits an obstruction or when its sensor beam is interrupted.

Vacuum the clothes dryer's exhaust duct at least once a year. If the duct is plastic, replace it (it's a fire hazard). Rigid sheet-metal ducting is best.

Replace furnace filters quarterly, or as recommended by the furnace manufacturer.

Test all GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets monthly. Press the test button and use a voltage tester to make sure the power goes off.
.

Once a year, vacuum the refrigerator coils underneath the appliance.

Replace the batteries in smoke detectors yearly. And remember, even recent hard-wired smoke detectors have backup batteries that must be replaced. If you have never checked yours, do so.

Gutter Maintenance and Repair

Posted on February 23, 2014 at 6:30 PM Comments comments (1)

Hello Friends,

With the weather so nice this weekend I wanted to share some home maintenance ideas. I am starting today with gutters. Remember safety first~

Call Andy for all your home inspection,home maintenance and improvement needs.

 

Gutter Cleaning and Maintenance

 

                                                                    PREPARING TO WORK ON YOUR GUTTERS

 

Thoroughly cleaning your home’s gutters every spring and fall will keep them working like they should. Leaves can build up and clog the downspouts, which can cause water damage to your roof and fascia (the board behind the gutter). Water pouring over the gutters or from leaks can end up next to your home’s foundation, in the basement or crawlspace.

 

                                                                                      GUTTER SAFETY

Cleaning or attempting to repair your gutters from on top of the roof is not recommended. Clean your gutters while standing firmly on a ladder. Avoid standing on the top three rungs and don't reach past the side rail – no farther than your belt buckle. When working from a ladder, use one bucket for gutter debris and another for carrying tools. Use wire hooks to attach the buckets to the ladder. Make sure the area below the gutter is clear.

 

                                                                                  CLEANING GUTTERS

 A hose-end attachment specially designed for gutters may make this project a lot easier. If you need to clean from a ladder, follow these steps.

Step 1

Begin cleaning the gutter near a downspout.

Step 2

Remove the large debris (leaves, twigs, etc.) with a trowel and dump it in a bucket.

Step 3

To clean out finer materials, flush the gutter lengths with a hose starting at the end opposite the downspout. Alternatively, you can use a gutter-cleaning attachment on a hose. If the water doesn’t drain, recheck the downspout strainer and clean as necessary.

If gutter water still doesn’t drain, the downspout may be clogged.

Check the drain end. If the downspout runs underground, remove it from the pipe as needed.

Install a small nozzle on the hose, and lock it at full pressure. Turn on the water and feed the hose up from the bottom of the spout. If this doesn’t clear the downspout or the nozzle is too big, use a plumber’s snake tool to clear the blockage.

Reattach the downspout.

Flush the entire gutter again.

Be sure to clean the downspout strainers.

                                                                   

                                                                      GUTTER MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR

 

Step 1

If there's still standing water after the gutter has been flushed, the gutter may not be sloped correctly and will require adjustment. The length of the system should decline at least ¼ inch every 10 feet toward the downspout.

If the gutter doesn’t slope enough, detach the hangers and adjust the gutter enough to drain properly, then reattach. It may be easier to work on small sections at a time to prevent the entire gutter system from falling.

 

Step 2

Inspect the gutter sections and downspouts for obvious damage and missing parts. Support hangers should be spaced every 2 feet along the gutter.

To replace or add hangers:

Install screw and ferrule hangers by marking their position on the gutter, drilling the holes in the gutter lip and fascia, then driving the screw with a drill through the ferrule.

Install screw-in or hidden hangers following the manufacturer’s directions. Most are attached through the rear of the gutter and into the fascia board, then clipped to the inside-front of the gutter.

If no fascia board exists, use roof hangers with straps, following the package instructions. Typical installation involves attaching a hanger across the gutter channel, clipping a strap to the hanger, then attaching the hanger under the shingles.

 

Step 3

Repair any leaks in the gutter.

To repair leaks at the seams, make sure the gutter lengths are tight against each other, and run a bead of gutter sealant on both sides of all joints.

To repair leaks at the end caps, add sealant along the inside of the joint.

To repair holes in the gutter material, ask a Lowe’s associate for products designed to repair aluminum or fiberglass gutters.

Identify gutter leaks by filling the gutter with water, but make sure the gutters have dried before repairing.

Step 4

Apply gutter touch-up paint to cover any blemishes as desired. If necessary, repaint some or all of the gutters.

                                                                              FOR ALL MY DIYers OUT THERE

                                                                                                     THE QUICK FIX

Make gutter cleaning easier--and safer (no ladder required)--with a long spray wand made from a 1/2-in.-diameter by 10-ft.-long PVC pipe. Cut two 6-in. lengths of pipe. Then use PVC cement to join these short sections and two 90-degree elbows with what is now a 9-ft.-long pipe, forming a J-shaped hook. At the short end of the hook, glue on a solid endcap. Drill three 1/8-in.- diameter holes in the cap. Glue a threaded adapter onto the opposite end of the pipe and attach a garden hose. Place the short end of the J-shaped hook inside the gutter and turn on the hose. As you walk along the house, high-pressure streams of water will rinse the gutter clean.

 

 

Andy's Pro Tip Finding Studs

Posted on January 13, 2014 at 6:55 PM Comments comments (0)

Hi everybody,

Today's topic is one that we have been through, usually with 20 extra holes in the wall we are trying to hang a picture on.

FINDING STUDS!!

Most people (including myself) have purchased a 'stud finder' at some point only to get frustrated by its lack of accuracy. I can't use one myself since it goes off anytime I just pick it up, lol. In the picture there is a flashlight shining against the wall showing a seam. This is where the stud is! You can also see where the screws are by a small 'hump' or 'dip' on the wall. There are also studs behind the screws. If the screws are not as visible, you measure off a seam, every 16" will be another stud. I hope this helps in all your picture hanging endeavors!

Thank you. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions or comments.

Maintaining Your Roof

Posted on January 9, 2014 at 3:00 PM Comments comments (0)

How do I maintain my roof?

  A great question. Taking a flashlight into the attic and looking around 
for any wet spots can save you thousands of dollars. By the time you see a spot on the drywall
the leak has been active for some time and the cost to fix has tripled. The most common areas
to leak are the ridge vent at the peak and the plumbing vent boots. A good interval to have these looked
at by a qualified individual is every 5 years. 

 Make sure that trees and debris are not overhanging or sitting on/against the roof. These create 
Shaded areas on the roof that allows algae to grow. Algea holds moisture against the roof and prolonged 
exposure to moisture will prematurely age the shingles forcing early replacement or risking damage.
Secondly, vegetation in contact with roof or structure allows pests like ants and cockroaches easy
access to your home around insect treatments, which are highly recommended.

 Feel free to contact me with any questions or clarification at 
[email protected]
Thank You!!

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